PATTERN: Big Button Beret

Okey-dokey, artichokeys. Today we're going to make the Big Button Beret!

Just a few words first (throat clearing: ahem, ahem):
1) This is a simple beret pattern - it's not a ground-breakingly new pattern. What makes this type of hat look quite snazzy is the yarn. I've been using sock yarns with a long colour stripe, which gives this effect:


And the second thing is, of course, the button. The hat is nice without a button, but an unusual button or even a crochet flower makes the beret a bit special.

2) Posters in recent threads on crochet/knit forums have been wondering about whether or not one may sell finished items made from a particular pattern. As far as I'm concerned - go for it! In fact, I would actively encourage those of you who craft for markets and craft fairs to give it a whirl. It's a very fast pattern (you can make a hat in an evening, if you're speedy.)

Right-ho. Enough of the speeches. Let's get down to work.

Ooops. One more thing:
This is not really a pattern, more of a loose guideline. Sock yarn is thin, so you need more rounds to reach the desired diameter. A thicker yarn (DK or WW) and a bigger hooks means fewer rounds - fewer rounds mean the hat will be finished even more quickly.

Right. We're really starting this time.

This pattern uses American crochet terms. British terms are in [brackets].
ch - chain
DC - double crochet [TR - British treble crochet]
2-DC together= [2-TR together] (Yo, Insert hook in next st, yo, draw yarn through st, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook) twice, yo draw yarn through 3 loops on hook.

You need:

• approx 70 g sock yarn
• 3.00 mm or 3.50 mm hook (e.g. E or F hook, American size)
• 1 button

Chain 4, join with a slip stitch.
Round 1: 1 ch, then do 10 DC [TR] into the circle. Join last DC with a slip stitch to your first DC
Round 2: 1 ch, 2 DC [TR] in same stitch. 2 DC [TR] in next nine stitches. Join with slip stitch.
Round 3: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch, *2 DC [TR] in next stitch, 1 DC [TR] in next stitch. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 DC [TR]. Join with slip stitch.


Round 4: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch and 1 DC [TR] in next stitch, *2 DC [TR] in next stitch, 1 DC [TR] in next two stitches. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 DC [TR]. Join with slip stitch.

(Just a little note: see how odd the first two stitches look, the chain + 1 DC? That's actually okay. When you slip stitch the final DC in the round to the top of the first DC, the chain fills the little gap that you would otherwise have. That makes the end of the round less visible.)

Round 5: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch and 1 DC [TR] in next two stitches, *2 DC [TR] in next stitch, 1 DC [TR] in next three stitches. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 DC [TR]. Join with slip stitch.
Round 6: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch and 1 DC [TR] in next three stitches, *2 DC [TR] in next stitch, 1 DC [TR] in next four stitches. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 DC [TR]. Join with slip stitch.
Round 7: 1 ch, 1 DC [TR] in same stitch and 1 DC [TR] in next four stitches, *2 DC [TR] in next stitch, 1 DC [TR] in next five stitches. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 DC [TR]. Join with slip stitch.

Aha! Do you see what's happening here? We're creating a big, flat circle by simply increasing the number of DCs we do between each double-DC [TR] in every round. In round 8 you do 1 DC in the six stitches between the double-DC [TR], in round 9 you do 1 DC in the seven stitches between the double-DC [TR]. And so on.

But what should I do if my circle is curling?
Well, a little curling isn't a problem. It doesn't have to be completely flat. Look!

But if it's curling quite a bit, you could try one or both of the following:
a) go up a hook size. I started with a 3.00 mm hook but found I was crocheting a bit tightly and my hat was curling into a saucer shape, so I switched to 3.50 mm to adjust my tension.
b) You can repeat a round. In other words, do the round you've just done again, with the same number of DCs between each double DC. Then continue to increase by adding an extra DC between the double DCs in the rows that follow.

When your circle has a diameter of approximately 28 cm (that's 11 inches - and this is a matter of preference: you can do a bigger circle, which will make a floppier hat). My hat reaches a diameter of approximately 28-29 cms (11.5 inches)  when I've got 15 DCs between each double-DC.

Depending on the weight of your yarn and your hook size, you might reach this size with fewer or more rounds than me. At this point you stop increasing every round and you start to decrease.

Decreasing:
Round X: 1 ch, *1 DC [TR] in next ten stitches, 2-DC [2-TR] together. Repeat from * till you're back at the starting DC [TR] - and don't worry if you haven't finished after exactly 10 DCs, this is just an approximate value so that we decrease evenly thoughout. Join with a slipstitch.

This time, curling is good! Curling is desired!

You repeat round X again and again, and as you do, you see how the circumference of your hat is getting smaller. The 2-DC together basically makes one stitch out of two, and that makes the brim of the hat decrease in size as we do each additional round.


Pop the hat on your head now and again, and when it has reached the point where the brim sits snugly (but not too tight!) against your head, stop decreasing!

From now on, you just continue to crochet in the round, with one DC in each stitch.

Continue till the brim is about 10 cm (4 inches) long, which is long enough to fold it over and attach a button.


You may not reproduce this pattern in print or claim it as your work. You may not sell the pattern. Do not copy and paste pattern to another website, please use a link. And, obviously, if you make millions from making these hats, you have to give me a significant share.